2004 was the very first time we made Emeritus Pinot Noir, our inaugural vintage from Hallberg Ranch. It was the start of a new chapter in our history. For the five years prior we were devoted entirely to planting and growing vines. But almost all of it was lost before we ever had the chance to share it.

The fire at Wines Central

In October 2005, Brice (my dad and our founder) was at the gym when a local news report caught his eye — a fire at a wine storage facility on Mare Island, in Vallejo. He stepped out and called Ted, Emeritus’ co-founder and CFO: was that where our wine was stored? Ted was sorry to report that it was.

Wines Central was a large wine storage facility that held wine from more than 90 wineries, and by the time the fire was out, an estimated 4.5 million bottles were gone, including nearly all of our 2004 vintage. The wine was destroyed by an arsonist trying to cover up a fraud scheme. It remains one of the largest losses in California wine history.

The silver lining

This vintage was the very first expression of Hallberg Ranch and Brice’s vision. But we were lucky: our inventory was fully insured. Brice was shocked! He’s always been quick to say he never would have thought to insure it. He couldn’t imagine why a warehouse that was formerly a submarine repair facility with the thickest concrete walls you’ve ever seen would need to be insured. But Ted would never have dreamed of leaving so much wine vulnerable. Sadly, not every winery at Wines Central was so fortunate.

Another silver lining is that if there’s a vintage to lose, it’s your first one. The inaugural vintage is never considered to be the best. The vineyard was very young, there wasn’t yet the rich expression we know today from Hallberg Ranch and we hadn’t yet started to dry farm. We had already harvested the 2005 vintage, so it was only a matter of time until we finally had wine to release.

Brice Jones, founder of Emeritus Vineyards, laughing in the winery in front of the harvest board
Brice, who never thought to insure it.

The one bottle left

We have just one special bottle of the 2004 vintage left. We’re saving it for something, though we’re not sure what for. We’ve clearly gone against Brice’s philosophy of drinking wine rather than aging it, and this is just one of the reasons he’ll cite when asked why!

Brice Jones standing by the Seine in Paris holding a bottle of Emeritus Pinot Noir
Brice brought the 2005 vintage to France to share with his friends.